Partner: Solo
Mileage: 15ish
Gain: 8k-10k' ish
Elapsed Time: Day ish
Start time: Not to early
Approach/deproach: A couple miles of nice hiking trail
Ski Gear: Lightish
Technical Gear: Single axe and Crampons
Rope: Nope
Pack: Light
Start: Summerland TH, White River Road
Finish: Start
Dryland: Depends on the time of year, but probably at least a mile
Mileage: 15ish
Gain: 8k-10k' ish
Elapsed Time: Day ish
Start time: Not to early
Approach/deproach: A couple miles of nice hiking trail
Ski Gear: Lightish
Technical Gear: Single axe and Crampons
Rope: Nope
Pack: Light
Start: Summerland TH, White River Road
Finish: Start
Dryland: Depends on the time of year, but probably at least a mile
Daniel Wiener on the Emmons Glacier with Little Tahoma Behind
Little Tahoma is so much more than a pretty element of the mount rainier skyline. If you are familiar with my trips you will have probably noticed I have a special affinity for beautiful places with good skiing which are overlooked by the masses. I personally have dozens of photos of partners on the Emmons Glacier with Little Tahoma in the background, what about actually climbing and skiing the mountain? Every photo you will see below has come from one of two solo trips up Little Tahoma.
Imagine that Mount Rainier wasn't right next to Little Tahoma, and then Imagine that Little Tahoma is basically the exact same height as Mount Hood (because it is). How popular a mountain would it be? Little Tahoma is the third tallest volcanic peak (well, technically a sub-peak) in Washington, Only Adams and Rainier are taller. It's proximity to Rainier and the sheer prominence of its summit give it some of the best views of any mountain in the state. Top that off with a short technical scramble to a very pointy and exposed summit, not something you see on other WA volcanoes.
About 2000' of very serious topography on the NW side of the summit, hopefully someone has BASE jumped this exit
The summit is slightly more rocky and technical than most WA volcanoes, but it's really not bad. There is a nice viewpoint maybe 50' vert below true summit. You can reach this viewpoint without having to climb any 5th class terrain. Getting to the true summit takes a little bit of exposed scrambling and a low 5th class move or two. Definitely nothing to scoff at in ski boots at 11k'. On the other hand you will probably pass at least one, maybe several mountaineering parties with a 60 meter rope and full rock rack, I guess they'll be really safe for the last 1/4 pitch' of climbing. I did the summit scramble on my first trip and skipped it on my second.
Views of the Emmons Glacier from the summit of Little Tahoma. Best view in the state?
Where I think most folks go wrong with this mountain (other than by not climbing it) is their chosen ascent/decent route. Yes there is a very direct line from Meany Crest above Fryingpan creek over to a notch and then up the S side of Tahoma (red dotted line on the Caltopo map) . If you take that line you sign yourself up for one heck of a traverse both getting there and getting back. Most parties appear to ski it this way and I think they are traversing away a lot of the good skiing.
Very pointy summit on the left
I have tried two different approaches and liked them both. The first time I went up I followed the standard route to the top then broke the exit into three parts (see caltopo map). A large run down the south side of Little Tahoma. Then a climb up and over the Whitman Crest and fall line ski into Glacier Basin. I added an ascent of Meany Crest to round out the day, but that was quite optional, though it made for some nice skiing. Frankly just skiing a few runs from Meany Crest would make for a lovely day. You might see four other people on a day when 1000 people are making the trek to Muir on the S side.
Just a moth chilling in the snow at almost 11k' on Little Tahoma. The hardiness of alpine creatures never ceases to amaze me.
The second time I climbed the mountain I was doing it as part of an Emmons/Rainier mission. Daniel and I were going to camp in Glacier Basin and ski the Emmons from its toe the next day. I wanted to fill out our approach day a little bit by also skiing Little Tahoma, Daniel opted to stay at camp in to keep his legs fresh for his first Rainier attempt (he did amazing!). I took a very direct line up from Glacier Basin to the Northeast Shoulder of Tahoma before rounding the ridge onto the standard south side route. This route skipped the standard Whitman Crest notch and was a fun direct variation. Fun fact, I felt worse at 11k' this day than I did summiting the next day, no idea why.
Looking down the NE side of Little Tahoma and the Fryingpan Glacier
The ski down into Glacier Basin isn't wide open towards the bottom, both times I have been there there were 1-2 snow tongues that connected, these are surrounded by impassible cliffs. The first time I was route finding without having ascended the route, still you can't just roll in without thinking a little. Getting stuck at a dead-end would only be a problem if things were getting wet-slidey at the end of the day. It would just be a skin back up onto the Fryingpan then a traverse over to Whitman Crest to get out. Not a bad idea to take a quick look at this section on your way up.
Efficient skinning on the Fryingpan
Keep in mind that you need a permit to go above 10,000' on Mount Rainier. Every time I do this I always pay the very convenient Mount Rainier Climbing Cost Recovery fee for the good karma. That fee funds the Mt Rainier Climbing Rangers who might be saving my ass and its just one fee payment per year (easy to do online at any hour). If you do obtain a climbing permit for topping out Tahoma I do think you are unlikely to be able to find any official to check it en route, a tragedy to be sure. You might even find yourself asking if you even needed to bother getting the very inconvenient to obtain climbing permit at all (have to go to an office during business hours to get that one).
Skiing is generally better than walking, but sometimes only a little
Am I worried about blowing up this stash? Not at all. Little Tahoma is a long ways back there including about four miles of low angle river valley approach. Much of the skiing is also not very fall line unless you go out of your way to make a big day a bit bigger. Nothing like a high cost of entry to keep the crowds away!